Every day, boats leave Huay Xai, on the Thai border, for the two-day journey down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. You can make it on the public slow boat or on a river cruise. Both follow the same river, take the same two days and stop for the night in Pakbeng. The experience on board, though, is very different.
This guide sets out what each option includes, what it costs and who it suits, so you can choose the one that fits your trip.
In this guide
The route: Huay Xai, Pakbeng, Luang Prabang
Huay Xai (also written Houayxay or Houay Xai) faces the Thai town of Chiang Khong across the Mekong. Downstream, the first day on the water ends in Pakbeng, a quiet riverside town in the hills, halfway along the route. The second day continues to Luang Prabang, the former royal capital and a UNESCO World Heritage city.
The journey also runs the other way, upstream from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai. Going against the current takes a little longer.
The public slow boat
How it works
The public slow boat takes two days, with about 6 to 8 hours on the water each day. Downstream is the most popular direction, and the faster one, carried by the current: day one runs from Huay Xai to Pakbeng, day two from Pakbeng to Luang Prabang, arriving around 5 p.m.
Upstream, the boat leaves the Luang Prabang slow boat pier daily at around 8:55 a.m. This direction is generally less crowded and more relaxed, but fighting the current makes it slightly longer.
On board
The ticket covers transport only. Seating is basic: wooden benches, or old seats taken from vehicles and coaches. Food and drinks are not included.
Tickets and prices
You can buy tickets at the slow boat pier, or through guesthouses and travel kiosks, such as those behind the night market in Luang Prabang or near the pier in Huay Xai.
As of October 2026, a ticket bought at the pier costs around 110,000 to 200,000 kip per leg. Through an agency in town, expect roughly 280,000 to 490,000 kip for the whole journey, often with a transfer to or from the pier.
The night in Pakbeng
The overnight stop in Pakbeng is not included in the public ticket. You find and pay for your own room when the boat arrives, and make your own way back to the pier the next morning.
A Mekong cruise with Mekong Cruises
The boat
We have been sailing this stretch of the Mekong since 1999. Our boats are 35 metres long and take up to 40 passengers. They blend traditional Lao craftsmanship with modern comfort, for a smooth, peaceful journey between jungle-covered banks.
At the front, a sun deck and a lounge; in the middle, a 40-seat restaurant; at the back, a bar and a sitting area. There are restrooms on board.
- Foredeck
- Wheelhouse
- Dining & lounge saloon
- Restrooms, crew galley & passage to the aft deck
- Aft deck
A guide, meals and stops along the way
An English-speaking guide travels with you. Downstream, the guide meets you at the Lao immigration office in Huay Xai, helps you with the visa, then takes you to the pier by shared minibus.
A traditional Lao lunch is served on board each day. Upstream, a Western breakfast is also served on the first morning. Along the way, the boat stops at a Khamu or Hmong village in the hills, at Ban Baw, a village known for its lao-lao whisky and handicrafts, and at the Pak Ou Caves, where thousands of Buddha statues stand in the limestone.
The night in Pakbeng: Luang Say Lodge or your own choice
Our signature cruise includes a night at Luang Say Lodge, our own lodge in Pakbeng, built in 1998 on four hectares of riverbank. Its 20 teak and rosewood bungalows overlook the river and are joined by wooden walkways to the riverside restaurant. Dinner is included.
On the 2-day cruise without the lodge, you stay at the accommodation of your choice in Pakbeng; it is not included in the price.
A guest’s review
An absolutely magical experience from start to finish. The boat crew were attentive and the scenery along the Mekong was breathtaking. The Luang Say Lodge exceeded all our expectations — we’ll be back!
Downstream · 2 days + lodge
2-Day Downstream Mekong Cruise with a Night at Luang Say Lodge
From $205 · Per person
Public slow boat vs Mekong cruise: side by side
| Public slow boat | Mekong Cruises | |
|---|---|---|
| Duration | 2 days, about 6 to 8 hours on the water each day | 2 days, or 1 day for half the route |
| Seating | Wooden benches or old vehicle seats | 35 m boat, up to 40 passengers: lounge, sun deck, restaurant, bar |
| Meals | Not included | Lao lunch on board every day |
| Guide and visits | Transport only | English-speaking guide; village, Ban Baw and Pak Ou Caves |
| Night in Pakbeng | Not included: find your own room | Luang Say Lodge with dinner, or your own choice |
| Border | On your own | Guide meets you at Lao immigration (downstream) |
| Booking | At the pier, a guesthouse or a travel agency | Online, with instant confirmation |
| Price | About 110,000–200,000 kip per leg at the pier; 280,000–490,000 kip in total through an agency | From US$ 120 (1 day), 180 (2 days) or 205 (2 days + lodge) per person |
Which one is right for you?
Choose the public slow boat if…
- you travel on a tight budget
- you are happy to organise everything yourself: tickets, food for the day, a room in Pakbeng and the border crossing
- basic seating on wooden benches does not bother you
Choose a Mekong cruise if…
- you want the journey itself to be part of the holiday
- you would like a comfortable seat with a view and lunch on board
- you want a guide to explain the villages and the Pak Ou Caves
- you prefer a night in Pakbeng that is already arranged
- it is your first trip to Laos, or you travel as a family
- you are short on time: a single day on the river is possible
Travelling upstream, from Luang Prabang
Heading back to Thailand? Our upstream cruises leave from Calao pier in Luang Prabang at dawn, with breakfast served on board, and stop at the Pak Ou Caves before continuing to Pakbeng. On arrival in Huay Xai, your guide accompanies you to the border by shared minibus. See the 2-day upstream cruise with a night at Luang Say Lodge, or compare all our cruises.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang?
Two days, with about 6 to 8 hours on the water each day and a night in Pakbeng. Downstream, the public boat reaches Luang Prabang around 5 p.m. on the second day. Our 2-day cruises follow the same rhythm; our 1-day cruises cover half the route.
How much does the slow boat to Luang Prabang cost?
As of October 2026, around 110,000 to 200,000 kip per leg at the pier, or roughly 280,000 to 490,000 kip for the whole journey through an agency. Food, drinks and the night in Pakbeng are extra. Our cruises start from US$ 120 per person for one day.
Can I book the slow boat in advance?
Public slow boat tickets are sold at the pier and by guesthouses and travel kiosks in Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. A Mekong Cruises cruise can be booked online, with instant confirmation.
Do I need a visa to take the boat from Thailand?
Most travellers do. A visa on arrival is available at the border in Huay Xai, and you can also apply for an eVisa before you travel. On our downstream cruises, the guide meets you at Lao immigration and helps with the formalities. Details are in our FAQ.
