Huay Xai (Houayxay): Your Gateway from Thailand to the Mekong

Huay Xai is spelled several ways: Houayxay, Houay Xai, even Huay Xay. Whatever the spelling, it is the same small town on the eastern bank of the Mekong, facing the Thai town of Chiang Khong, and the capital of Bokeo Province. For travellers, it is above all the gateway to Laos from northern Thailand and the place where the boats to Luang Prabang set off.

This guide covers getting there, crossing the border, the Lao visa, where to sleep, and what to see in town before you board.

The nearest airport is Chiang Rai, 134 km away, about two hours by road. We can arrange the transfer. An early start from Chiang Rai is enough to board a boat in Huay Xai the same day.

From Chiang Mai, the drive is longer: about five hours by private car without stops. Plan to arrive the day before your boat and sleep at the border. The whole route from Thailand, step by step, is in our guide from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang by boat.

The border lies on the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge. The Thai and Lao checkpoints are open from 7:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

1. Thai side. At the Chiang Khong checkpoint, before the bridge, you complete the Thai exit formalities.
2. The bridge. An official shuttle or a van takes you across in 10 to 15 minutes.
3. Lao side. At Huay Xai immigration, you get your visa and enter Laos. On our downstream cruises, this is where our team meets you.

If you prefer to have it all taken care of, we can arrange the Chiang Khong to Huay Xai transfer for US$ 38 per trip.

A visa on arrival is issued at Huay Xai immigration. Bring:

• a passport valid for at least six months, with one completely blank page;
• two passport photos;
• US$ 50 in cash. Dollars are preferred, but euros and Thai baht are also accepted.

You can also apply for an eVisa online before you travel. Three details trip people up:

• Entry point: choose the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge (Chiang Khong – Huay Xai).
• Transport: choose “Car” only if you are driving your own vehicle with a licence plate; otherwise, choose public transport.
• Passport scan: a clear colour scan in JPG or PNG, 2 to 3 MB at most. PDFs are usually refused.

If you arrive the day before your boat, you can sleep on either side of the river. Both work well with our downstream cruises:

• In Chiang Khong (Thailand): you cross the border in the morning, and our team meets you at Lao immigration in Huay Xai between 7:30 and 9:00 a.m. to help with the visa.
• In Huay Xai (Laos): you cross the day before, and we pick you up directly from your hotel.

Sleeping in Huay Xai also gives you an evening and an early morning to see the town.

Huay Xai is a quiet town of French colonial buildings and Buddhist temples, a gentle first taste of Lao culture.

This 19th-century wooden temple stands on a hilltop above the town. It is the visit to make if you have only an hour or two before boarding.

Fort Carnot is a remnant of the French colonial period in Laos.

For a real immersion in local life, walk through the morning market before your boat leaves.

Further afield, the Bokeo Nature Reserve is a sanctuary for the black gibbon. It is an outing of its own, beyond the town.

From Huay Xai, the Mekong carries you to Luang Prabang in two days, with a night in Pakbeng. On our cruises, a shared minibus takes you from the border to the pier and the boat leaves at 10:30 a.m.; the first day ends in Pakbeng, the second at Calao pier in Luang Prabang at 5:00 p.m.

You can also take the public slow boat, which is cheaper but covers transport only. Our guide to the slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang compares the two options.